Αγρίλι Resort Οικογενειακές Διακοπές

Tour

If You Have 1 Day

The city’s two major museums the Archaeological Museum and the Museum of Byzantine Culture—are handily located side by side near the fairgrounds. Decide whether you’d rather start with artifacts from antiquity or images of life in Byzantine Thessaloniki, and be the first one through the door at the museum you choose. After visiting the museums (with a break at the excellent cafe in the Byzantine Museum), stroll back along the harbor past the White Tower to the center of town for lunch. If you feel energetic, hop a bus or take a taxi to the old-fashioned Upper City (known locally both as Ano Poli and Tsinari). Then grab a bite, perhaps at Tsinari’s Ouzeri, one of a number of small eateries in and around Tsinari Square, before wandering downhill to the center of today’s Thessaloniki.

After your own siesta, you might visit some of the Roman monuments and the churches of Ayia Sofia and Ayios Dimitrios in the city center, keeping in mind that plenty of cafes are nearby, as well as the famous sweet shop Terkenlis (www.terkenlis.gr) in Ayia Sofia Square. When you’re ready for dinner, head to one of the cheek-by-jowl restaurants in the Ladadika, the restored warehouse district which takes its name from the olives and olive oil once stored here. Another not-to-be-missed dinner choice is the justly famous Thanasis, in the rambling Modiano Market.

If You Have 2 Days

If you have more than a day, abbreviate your first day, so you don’t feel obligated to see the city in one fell swoop. You might begin your second day with the Upper City and work your way downhill. Start at the impressive but overly-restored Vlatadon Monastery and then head down, stopping at the appealing little churches of Osios David, Nikolaos Orphanos, and Profitias Elias. Even if church architecture, mosaics, and frescoes are not your passion, you’ll walk through the narrow streets lined with two-story wood houses dating back to the Turkish period. If you didn’t see them on your first day, take in the churches of Ayia Sofia and Ayios Dimitrios when you get back down to the city center, and stroll past the Alatza Imaret and Yeni and Bey Hamami Baths, relics of the city’s Turkish past.

Then, for a change of pace, take in the city’s markets that blur one into another: the Modiano, the open-air food market on Athonos Square, the Kapani (Vlali), and Bezesteni markets. If you visit all these, you can buy anything from a copper bucket for milking sheep to the sheep itself. Along the way, you can nibble on souvlaki, pastry, or whatever seasonal fruit catches your fancy and get a bunch of flowers at the Loulou-dadika (flower market) in a 16th-century Turkish bath, the Yahudi Haman. If you haven’t already seen the arch of Galerius, the Rotunda, and the Roman agora, try to take them in during an evening volta (stroll), with frequent breaks along the way at some of Thessaloniki’s myriad cafes.

If You Have 3 Days or More

Everyone in Thessaloniki seems to be rushing. Take advantage of being on vacation and spend some time strolling, wandering, and browsing through some of the shops and galleries along Egnatia, Tsimiski, Aristotelous, Ayias Sofias, and pedestrianized Dimitriou Gounari streets. In the evening, if you want to see young Thessalonians working at relaxing, take in some of the bars at harborside Aristotelous Square, in and just off Plateia Athonos (between Egnatia and Ermou sts.), or at the famous Mylos complex on Andreou Georgou.

When you’ve had your fill of city pleasures, you may want to head out of Thessaloniki to see some of the sites associated with Philip and Alexander, such as Vergina, Dion, or Pella. If you’d like to avoid a lot of driving, sign up for one of the efficient day trips that take in these sites. (See Philip & Alexander the Great) If you plan to see the sites by car, try to do so on your way in or out of town rather than as a day trip, in order to avoid fighting your way back and forth in Thessaloniki’s fierce traffic.

THESSALONIKI (SALONIKA)

When a Greek tells you he’s from Athens, he almost always sounds a bit apologetic. Greeks from Thessaloniki, on the other hand, sound, if not smug, very pleased to be from Greece’s “Second City.” Thessaloniki may be second to Athens in political importance and population, but in popular songs, Thessaloniki is celebrated as “the mother of Macedonia,” “the most blessed of cities,” “beautiful Thessaloniki,” and “the city whose praises are sung.”

You, too, may be tempted to sing this city’s praises when you take in its wonderful location along the broad expanse of the Thermaic Gulf. You’re never far from the sea here; when you least expect it, you can catch a glimpse of waves and boats in the distance. Alas, especially in the summer, you may also notice signs of the harbor’s pollution, including a ripe odor. If you’re very lucky, you’ll see Mount Olympus while you’re here: Pollution has increasingly obscured even that imposing landmark.

Greeks are fond of reminding foreigners that when their ancestors were painting themselves blue or living in rude huts, Greeks were sitting in the shade of the Parthenon, reading the plays of Sophocles. Similarly, Thessalonians like to remind Athenians that when Athens languished in the long twilight of its occupation by the Romans and Ottomans, Thessaloniki flourished. It’s true: Thessaloniki’s strategic location on the main land route from Europe into Asia made it a powerful city during the Roman Empire. Many monuments built here date from the 4th century a.d., from the Emperor Galerius’s rule. During the Byzantine Empire (the 4th–15th c. a.d.), Thessaloniki boasted that it was second only to the capital, Constantinople. Thessaloniki’s greatest pride its superb and endearing churches were built then. After the Turks conquered the Byzantine Empire, Thessaloniki continued to flourish as an important commercial center and port. In the 18th and early 19th centuries, the city’s Jewish community was so strong and so prosperous that some called Thessaloniki the “second Jerusalem.”

Then, in August 1917, a devastating fire destroyed 80% of the city. Phoenix-like, Thessaloniki rose from the ashes. Unfortunately, only part of the city was rebuilt according to the grand plan of the French architect Ernest Hebrard. More than 130,000 Greek refugees from Asia Minor flooded into Thessaloniki between 1922 and 1923, almost doubling the city’s population and leading to enormous unregulated development. Still, Thessaloniki enjoys the broad tree-lined boulevards and parks that Athens so sadly lacks.

After World War II, and again in the 1960s, two more growth spurts left much of the city’s outskirts crowded and ugly and all too much of the city center lined with bland apartment buildings. Still, Thessaloniki has none of the horizon-blocking skyscrapers that have proliferated in Athens; earthquake regulations forbid this.

The last major earthquake was in 1978. In recent years, the narrow lanes and old-fashioned houses of the Upper City (Ano Poli) became sought after for restoration, first into bohemian pads and now into chic urban homes.

Glimpses of the sea, tree-lined streets, magnificent Byzantine churches all these make visiting Thessaloniki special. The food is also noticeably more varied and inventive than in most other parts of Greece. The long traditions of Macedonian cuisine are infused with zesty flavors of the Pontus (the area around the Black Sea where most of the city’s refugees had lived). And, there’s another reason that the food here is so good: The restaurants cater to local customers; none of them make their living off tourists.

ESSENTIALS

GETTING THERE

By Plane Thessaloniki’s Macedonia International Airport (2310/473-212), 17km (11 miles) south of town, is served from Athens International Airport (210/353-0000; www.aia.gr) by Olympic Airways ( 210/966-6666,or 2310/368-311 in Thessaloniki; www.olympic-airways.gr) Aegean Air ( 210/998-8300,or 2310/239-225 in Thessaloniki; www.aegeanair.com) has flights from Athens. EasyJet sometimes serves Thessaloniki; go to www.easyjet.com.From the U.S., there are no direct flights to Thessaloniki. Connections can be made at a number of European cities, including London, Amsterdam, Brussels,Frankfurt, Stuttgart, Munich, Zurich, and Vienna. The airport ( 2310/411-997 or 2310/473-212) is a 30-minute drive from the city center.

Bus no. 78 runs from the airport into central Thessaloniki in about an hour (usually stopping in Aristotelous Sq. and at the train station)daily from about 6am to 11pm and costs 2€. A taxi ride runs about 15€.

By Train Five daily trains officially make the trip from Athens to Thessaloniki in about 6 hours, but most are extremely crowded, without air-conditioning, and subject to unexplained delays; nonetheless, they are cheap: 18€ each way. If you must take a train, choose the fast InterCity, preferably the overnight sleeper, which has first-class compartments for four to six passengers and sleeper compartments for two to six passengers. Make reservations for sleeping compartments well in advance at the Larissa train station in Athens ( 210/323-6747 www.ose.gr). In Thessaloniki, you can purchase tickets at the OSE (train) station, 28 Monastiriou, the western extension of Egnatia ( 2310/599-068). InterCity coach tickets from Athens to Thessaloniki cost from 40€, sleeper service from 75€. A taxi ride from the station to Aristotelous Square takes about 10 minutes and costs about 7€. Avoid the trek to the train station to get information and buy tickets, and use the OSE (train) office instead, at 18 Aristotelous Sq.( 2310/517-517 www.ose.gr 9am to 9pm Tuesday to Friday; 9am to 3pm Monday and Saturday.

By Bus Ten air-conditioned buses from Athens make the trip daily to Thessaloniki in about 7 hours (includes one 20-min. stop at a roadside restaurant with toilet facilities). Buses usually arrive on time. Make reservations in advance at the Athens bus terminal, 100 Kifissou ( 201/512-9233). A one-way fare costs about 35€. Many buses arrive in Thessaloniki at the station at 65 Monastiriou (2310/510-834) opposite the train station, where there are taxis.Some buses stop at the newer bus station at 194 Iannitsou ( 2310/595-408),west of the train station. For general information on Athens-Macedonia schedules and fares, call 210/512-4910 or go to www.ktel.org.

By Car From Athens, take the 516km (320-mile) National Road, a four-lane highway that’s the best in Greece, although stretches are always being repaired or widened,which leads to frequent delays. The road, a major truck route, is also often the scene of serious accidents. Plan on at least 6 or 7 hours, if you stop en route. Gas stations are common along the National Road, but you often must exit to reach them. Much of the road skirts the mountains and goes through the plains of central and northern Greece. In other words, it’s not the moststunning drive. Ifyou’re driving to Northern Greece from Europe, you’ll probably take the ferry from the Italian ports of Bari, Ancona, or Brindisi to Igoumenitsou on the northwest coast of Greece, and then drive across the PindusMountains to Thessaloniki. The trip is spectacular; allow at least 5 or 6 hours. The southern route (via Ioannina and Kalambaka to Larissa and the National Rd.) is much less treacherous than the northern alternative (through Kozani)—particularly in winter, although snow can close both routes. The southern route also passes Kalambaka and the monasteries perched on the awesome pinnacles of the Meteora (see chapter 13). You will almost certainly encounter continuing roadwork on the National Highway (called the Via Egnatia, after its Roman predecessor) designed to link Patras (in the Peloponnese) with Central Greece and continue on to Macedonia and the Turkish border. The road was officially completed in June of 2009, but work will continue for some time.

VISITOR INFORMATION The office of the Greek National Tourism Organization(EOT) is at 136 Tsimiski ( 2310/252-170 www.visitgreece.gr or www.mintour.gr) theThessaloniki Tourist Office is at 138 Vas. Olgas (2310/428-329 www.thessaloniki city.gr).

CITY LAYOUT

CITY LAYOUT Thessaloniki rests on the northern coast of the Thermaic Gulf like a lopsided turban tilted slightly to the northwest. In its center, beside the gulf, sits the city’s most famous landmark, the (once-but-no-longer whitewashed) White Tower, the best-known remnant of the walls that once encircled the city. The great walls—begun in antiquity and extended and expanded by the Byzantines, Venetians, and Turks—came down as the population grew and the city expanded in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. To the east sprawl the ever-expanding residential districts, while to the west, situated in the area once defined by its fortresslike Byzantine walls, is the city’s commercial heart.

In this latter area, bounded on the south by the harbor and on the north by the rising heights of what is called the Ano Poli (Upper City), are Thessaloniki’s most important shops, banks, hotels, restaurants, archaeological remains, and churches. On its western edge are the train station, most bus terminals, many shipping docks, the Customs building, and streets lined with warehouses—many now converted into the chic restaurants and galleries of the Ladadika district. Ladadika blurs into Ksiladika, the woodworkers’ district, which is beginning to lay claim to its own chic restaurants and shops, in addition

to the carpenter’s workshops that originally gave the district its character. On the city center’s eastern side, just north of the White Tower and outside what was once the eastern gate, are the grounds of Aristotle University, the International Trade Fair, and the Archaeological and Byzantine museums. Between the latter and the White Tower lie the Municipal Park and the State Theater of Northern Greece.

The commercial area of the city is traversed by four main streets running on an oblique angle from the southwest to the northeast. The largest, Egnatia, runs across the northern side of the commercial district. On its western end at Vardari (Dimokratias) Square, it connects with roads to the west, north, and east. On its eastern end (under the name of New Egnatia), it connects with highways to the airport and to the peninsulas of Halkidiki. In the heart of the city, Egnatia is home to discount shops, cheap hotels, and affordable restaurants. The city’s second-most important commercial route, Tsimiski, parallels Egnatia 2 blocks to the south and runs one-way from east to west. Along its tree-shaded length lie the city’s most prestigious shops and department stores. One block south of Tsimiski and running one-way from west to east is Mitropoleos, so named because the Metropolitan Cathedral sits near its center. Like Tsimiski, it has a number of fine shops and boutiques. Finally, another block to the south and running along the seaside promenade is Leoforos Nikis. Also one-way from west to east, it begins at the shipping docks and ends at the White Tower. Along its length is a virtually uninterrupted line of outdoor cafes and bars.

The broad expanse of Aristotelous Square, which borders the sea, is the heart of downtown Thessaloniki. Ringed with outdoor cafes and restaurants, it is also the backdrop for the city’s major political rallies. Running north and south and connecting Aristotelous with the city’s other major square, Dikasterion, is the street named Aristo-telous. A number of book and record stores flank its arcaded sidewalks. Dikasterion Square overlooks the partially excavated Roman marketplace and offers welcome trees, the lovely Byzantine church Panagia Chalkeon (Virgin of the Copper Workers), and a restored Turkish bathhouse. You might find an informal market here run mainly by migrant workers from Eastern Europe, the former USSR, and Africa. Most local buses begin and end their city runs here.

To the south of Dikasterion Square, across Egnatia and on either side of Aristotelous, are the city’s main market areas, where you can find flowers, fish, sandals, and just about anything else you can think of. The city’s second main north-south route, Ayias Sofias, lies to the east of Aristotelous Street. In its center, between Egnatia and Tsimiski, stands the church of St. Sofia. Look for excellent clothing stores along Ayias Sofias. Pavlou Mela runs diagonally southeast from the rear of the church to the White Tower and sports a number of bars and cafes; leading directly south to Tsimiski from virtually the same point are the tree-lined pedestrian walkways of Iktinou and Zevksidos, sites of several outdoor cafes and restaurants. Two blocks east of the rear of Ayias Sofias Square are Thessaloniki’s major pedestrian walkway, Dimitriou Gounari. Its shop-lined length covers a major Roman thoroughfare leading down from the arch to the Palace of Gale-rius. The palace area, now partially excavated, opens onto the tree-shaded park of Nava-rino Square, which is crowded with outdoor cafes, bars, and tavernas, and second only to Aristotelous as the city’s major gathering place although many of the artists and intellectuals who gather here would place it first.

Another 2 blocks east lay Ethnikis Aminis. While it runs one-way south from Egna-tia down to the State Theater and the White Tower, it becomes a two-way street above Egnatia at Sintrivaniou (Fountain) Square (the former eastern gate of the city) and leads into winding roadways that run outside the ancient walls to the Upper City.

On the hillside leading down to Thessaloniki proper from the Upper City is the old Turkish Quarter. Called, variously, Ano Poli (Upper City), Eptapirgiou (Seven Gates), and To Kastro (Fortress), it is where some of the finest Byzantine churches— and, increasingly, some elegant restored town houses—are located. This is easily the most pleasant part of Thessaloniki to explore, especially the winding streets around Kalitheas Square, such as Irodotou, as well as pleasant squares such as Romfei Square, in the district known as Koule Kafe, and Tsinari Square, at the juncture of Kleious and Alexandras Papadopoulou. Severe fires in 1997 and 1998 greatly damaged the pine forest of Seih Sou on the upper hills. Although a reforestation project continues, it will be years before new growth brings back Thessaloniki’s “green lungs.”

The Ring Road, just to the north of the Upper City, goes around Thessaloniki from the southwest to the southeast and connects the National Road from Athens with highways to Thrace and Halkidiki and to the airport at Mikras along the sea to the east.

FINDING AN ADDRESS In theory, because of the orderly east-west, north-south arrangement of streets, finding an address in the city center should be easy. Unfortunately, buildings almost never have visible numbers; ask for what you want by name, not by number. Still, just in case you spot some street numbers, they should begin at the eastern and southern ends of streets and go upward, with even numbers on the right and odd numbers on the left. Most Thessalonians think of addresses in terms of the cross streets or well-known structures near them and give directions by local landmarks— which, of course, does not always help outsiders, especially when the local landmark may be one that was torn down decades ago! Outside the city center, particularly north of Egnatia, finding what you want is not easy, as the streets begin to meander. Even with a good map, you’ll probably have trouble, but take it, as the Greeks say, “Siga, siga” (”Slowly, slowly”), and you’ll find your way.

MAPS City maps and two excellent guides to the city (The Thessaloniki Handbook [with section-by-section maps], by Christos Zafiris and Monuments of Thessaloniki [with an excellent city-center map], by Apostolos Papagiannopoulos) are usually available at bookstores, including Ianos, 7 Aristotelous ( 2310/277-164); Travel Bookstore, 41Proxenou Koromila ( 2310/275-215); Malliaris, 9 Aristotelous ( 2310/276-926) and P. Kyriakides, 40 Agias Sophias St. ( 2310/241-613).

GETTING AROUND In the city center, a 20- to 30-minute walk will take you to most attractions, restaurants, and shops. Taxis are usually easy to find, unless you’re going to the Upper City. Many taxis are reluctant to make this trip because there is little guarantee of a return fare down, and they may—unlawfully—refuse. But if you’re in the cab before you state your destination, there’s little the driver can do but take you there. Otherwise, it’s a steep uphill walk of at least 20 minutes, or you can hop on bus no. 22, which leaves from Eleftherias Square.

By Bus Buses with double cars are boarded at the rear, where a conductor gives you a ticket and makes change. Single-car buses are boarded at the front; on these, exact fare is required. Deposit the fare in the ticket-issuing machine behind the driver’s seat. Keep your ticket in case a conductor boards the bus to check them. Fares vary according to the distance traveled; an average journey within Thessaloniki costs less than 1€.

By Taxi This is your best bet except, as noted above, when you want to go to the Upper City. Take along a map or have someone write out your destination in Greek, so that you can show the driver where you want to go. Rates are moderate compared to those in the U.S.; tips are not expected, although rounding up the fare is appreciated. Make sure that

the driver turns on the taxi meter and that, within the city limits, the rate used is no. 1. Rate no. 2 is for outside the city limits. There’s an extra 6.50€ charge for trips from the airport. After midnight, all fares on the meter are doubled.

By Car As noted, there is little reason to use a car within Thessaloniki. Traffic is terrible and legal parking spots are almost impossible to find, even at the large public parking lot in Plateia Eleftherias. But having a car for excursions into Northern Greece will allow you to see and enjoy a lot more than you would either from a bus or on a guided tour. Keep in mind that if you take a day trip, you’ll spend at least an hour getting out of and another hour getting back into the city. It makes much better sense to see what you want outside of town on your way in, or out, of Thessaloniki.

Most car-rental agencies, including Avis (www.avis.com), Budget (www.budget.com), Eurocar (www.eurocar.com), and Hertz (www.hertz.com), have offices at the airport. A car with unlimited mileage costs from 60€ per day in high season. ( Reminder: High season is not summer, but the time of the Sept–Oct trade and other festivals.) Be sure to ask if the price quoted includes all taxes and insurance—and be sure to take full insurance if your credit card does not provide it. Tip: It is almost always cheaper to book a car with an international agency from abroad, not from within Greece.

By Boat It’s possible to take ferries and boats from Thessaloniki to a number of Aegean islands (including Crete, Santorini, and Mykonos) and to the Sporades (Skiathos, Skopelos, and Alonissos). Many travel agents around Plateia Eleftherias and Aristotelous Square sell ferry tickets. Centrally located agencies include Polaris Travel, 81 Egnatiou ( 2310/276-051), and Zorpidis Travel, 4 Salaminos ( 2310/555-955; www.zorpidis.gr). The harbor police/port authorities can be reached at 2310/531-504 (to -507).

The website for Greek Travel Pages (www.gtp.gr) is also useful for boat schedules.

ATTRACTIONS

THE TOP ATTRACTIONS: MUSEUMS

Archaeological Museum This museum reopened in 2008 after several years of renovations. As is increasingly common in recently reinstalled museums, the displays illuminate how life was lived through the ages, rather than to chronicle the development of artistic styles and genres. The displays here give us a glimpse of life in Macedonia from about 350,000 b.c. through the early Christian era. Several excellent videos (Greek and English) look at how archaeologists interpret what they find and how ancient Macedonia developed and the city of Thessaloniki grew. In addition, exhibits give us a peek behind the scenes at how some objects were found, perhaps when a building was torn down, or when tunnels were dug in the ongoing excavations for the forthcoming Metro. If you’ve visited this museum in past years, you may miss some of the former stars of the museum—finds from the tombs at Derveni and the Royal Tombs at Vergina which are now on display at Vergina. Don’t let the absence of these gold

treasures, however famous and wonderful, keep you from enjoying what is here, including the spectacular 4th-century-b.c. Derveni Krater with its elaborate and sensual scenes of the marriage of Dionysios and Ariadne. The krater and gold found in a 4th-century tomb near Thessaloniki are on display in the Gold of Macedon room, up several steps and to the right as you enter the museum. (The Gold of Macedon room is indicated on the brochure you should get with your ticket, but is usually quite dark and not signposted in the museum itself.) The Derveni krater and the gold are memorable, but almost more amazing are the paper-thin Hellenistic glass vessels and delicate Roman mosaics from private houses that were used daily in antiquity. That they have survived in such superb condition seems miraculous. And don’t miss the portrait bust of 4th-century-a.d. Emperor Galerius, which shows him as the tough brawler he was. Galerius entered the army as a lowly recruit and fought his way up out of obscurity, ending up as the emperor who built many of Thessaloniki’s surviving ancient monuments.

This severe, low museum was built in 1962, and is considered to be the best example of “architectural modernism” in Thessaloniki—a sad commentary on that tedious genre. The museum shop has postcards, guidebooks, and a number of souvenirs featuring the 16-point star of Macedon. The museum toilet facilities are good; the cafe has snacks and soft drinks but does not hold a candle to the cafe/ restaurant at the nearby Byzantine Museum. Allow several hours here. If you’re interested, inquire about the guided tours in English given several times a week.

6 Manoli Andronikou (opposite the south side of the International Fairgrounds). ( 2310/830-538. Fax 2310/861-306 www.amth.gr. Admission 6€; combined admission to Archaeological and Byzantine museums 9€. Mon noon-7pm; Tues-Sun 8am-7pm. Hours subject to change. Bus: 58 from Dikasterion Sq., or 11 heading east from anywhere on Egnatia.

Museum of Byzantine Culture With the possible exception of the Byzantine and Christian Museum in Athens, this is Greece’s finest collection of Byzantine art. I think the most impressive—and magical—exhibits here are the 4th- to 6th-century barrel-vaulted tombs found in Thessaloniki, with frescoes showing Old and New Testament scenes as well as scenes in Paradise. You’ll see Daniel in the Lions’ Den, Christ as the Fisher of Men, and blissful scenes of Paradise, where fruit, fowl, and wine are shown in abundance. The text accompanying the exhibit looks at the transition from the ancient image of the Afterworld as the Elysian Fields to the Christian images of Paradise. Not surprisingly, the museum has a number of important icons, including a terrific 12th-century icon of the Virgin and Christ child. A display of bright mosaics and elaborately

carved marble panels salvaged from the church of Ayios Dimitrios after the great fire of 1917 brings home just how splendid that church once was.

Exhibits cover the development of Byzantine culture from its early beginnings in the Roman world through the fall of Constantinople in 1453; the final exhibits focus on the lasting influence of Byzantine culture in Greece. As at the Archaeological Museum, the exhibits here attempt to tell the story of Thessaloniki and look at its social history through art and artifacts, including such down-to-earth items as drain pipes and cooking pots.

The museum shop usually has a range of books on Byzantine culture, as well as museum reproductions and postcards. The cafe/restaurant is so appealing that it has become a popular meeting place for local ladies who lunch. Allow several hours here.

2 Leoforos Stratou (just west of the Archaeological Museum). ( 2310/868-570. 2310/838-597. Admission 6€; combined admission to both the Byzantine and Archaeological museums 9€. Mon noon-7pm; Tues-Sun 8am-7pm. Hours subject to unannounced changes. Bus: 58 from Dikasterion Sq., or 11 heading east from anywhere on Egnatia.

THE TOP ATTRACTIONS: MONUMENTS

Arch of Galerius If you need directions here, try asking for ee kamara (the arch), which is what Thessalonians call this hefty monument built by Galerius around a.d. 305 to celebrate a victory over the Persians a few years earlier. Originally, the arch was even larger: Almost half—another entire arch—is missing. Look for the Persians, some in the peaked caps and trousers that the Greeks and Romans found so effeminate and absurd, in the carved panels that tell the story of Galerius’s battles. Until 1953, the tram line ran right under this arch. Ar pollution from the surrounding traffic steadily erodes many sculptural details. You can take this place in with a glance, or spend a pleasant half-hour admiring the detail. Just below the Rotunda on Egnatia and Dimitriou Gounari.

Greek Agora & Roman Forum In the 1960s, workmen digging to lay the foundations of new law courts for Thessaloniki came across the remains of the city’s ancient Greek agora, which later became the Roman forum. Archaeologists took over and excavated the sprawling complex you see today. As in Athens, this agora/forum was the heart of the ancient city, its commercial, governmental, social, and artistic center—and, as with the Athenian agora, the remains are not easy to identify.

When the Romans came here, they inevitably expanded the Greek agora, creating a two-level forum. You can see the arched remains of the cryptoporticus, a retaining wall that supported part of the upper forum. The best-preserved ruin here, the large Odeum, or Odeon, is a theater where Romans enjoyed watching both musical performances and fights to the death between gladiators and wild beasts. The Odeum is sometimes still used for summer concerts.

In modern times, the most famous ancient monument here was the stoa with a series of statues facing the Via Egnatia, known as the Incantadas (Enchanted Idols), the name given them by Thessaloniki’s then-flourishing community of Sephardic Jews. By the 19th century, much of the colonnade was lost, but a segment remained, incorporated into the courtyard of a Jewish home. When the French scholar Emmanuel Miller saw the colonnade, he knew he had to have it—and got permission to cart the remaining incantadas off to the Louvre, where they are to this day. Browse in the few book and print shops in Thessaloniki, and you’ll probably see reproductions of a charming engraving of the colonnade by the 18th-century English antiquarians Stuart and Revett. There’s almost no shade here, so you may want to stroll about a bit and then take in the sights while polishing off an ice cream from one of the cafes overlooking the site.

If things Turkish interest you, stop by the Bey Hamami, Thessaloniki’s first and once Greece’s largest Turkish bath, built on Egnatia in 1444 from the remains of Christian churches destroyed after the Turkish conquest. The multidomed “Paradise Baths” now function as an exhibit hall, with irregular hours, but is most often open Monday through Friday 8:30am to 3pm (no address, no phone). The Ministry of Culture shop just beyond the Bey Hamami has museum reproductions and bored clerks; officially open daily 8:30am to 2:30pm. Dikasterion Sq., bounded by Filipou, Agnostou Stratiotou, Olimbou, and Makedonikis Amnis sts.

Hippodrome We know that the ancient Hippodrome, where chariot races took place, lies under the square of the same name, because of finds made when modern apartments were built. There are almost no aboveground remains of this ancient racetrack where, in a.d. 390, Emperor Theodosius the Great ordered the slaughter of about 7,000 spectators. The reason: Galerius was furious when a mob lynched a close friend of his who had banned a popular charioteer from an important race. After that terrible day, people abandoned the Hippodrome, and it was gradually covered by buildings from successive eras.

In 1566, the Turks executed St. Cyril here for not converting to Islam. The charming little church of St. Anthony here was, during the Turkish Occupation, a lunatic asylum. In the church, you can still see some of the manacles with which “patients” were imprisoned. Allow half an hour here. Ippodromou Sq.

Galerius’s Palace The emperor Galerius built himself a palace in Thessaloniki. After all, his co-emperor Diocletian was building himself a perfectly splendid palace at Split, on the Dalmatian coast. Little remains of Galerius’s royal home, but even these low ruins give you an idea of the size of the two-story palace with its large central courtyard— fit, in short, for an emperor. The best-preserved part of the complex is the Octagon,the mysterious building that some archaeologists think may have been Galerius’s throne room. The Octagon, exceptionally opulent and richly decorated with a multicolored marble floor, had two interior recesses. One, a good deal larger than the others, would have been ideal for a throne. That said, it should be noted that a very similar structure built by Diocletian in Spoleto, Italy, was not a throne room but a mausoleum. Allow half an hour here. Navarino Sq.

Rotunda (Ayios Yioryos) Some say that Galerius built this massive brick-and-stone structure as his defiantly immodest mausoleum, while others think he intended it to be a temple, perhaps of Zeus. Later in the 4th century, the Byzantine emperor Theodosius the Great converted the Rotunda into Ayios Yioryos (Church of St. George), and began the ornamentation of its 6m-thick (20-ft.) walls with mosaics. When the Turks conquered Thessaloniki in the 15th century, they converted the church into a mosque (you’ll see the one minaret left from this period) and destroyed many of the exquisite mosaics.

The Rotunda reopened in 1999 after more than a decade spent repairing the damage done by the horrific earthquake of 1978. Artisans and archaeologists worked with literally millions of tesserae, or tiles, to restore the dazzling mosaics. Now you can see (especially if you bring binoculars) indigo peacocks, garlands of flowers and fruit, and blond, curly-haired saints and martyrs (and martyred saints) in the mosaics that cover the walls. Try to visit on a Wednesday, when the neighborhood street market stretches for blocks around the Rotunda, and ask about special exhibits or concerts here. Allow an hour to explore.

Ayios Yioryos Sq. at Filipou (1 block north of the juncture of Egnatia and Dimitriou Gounari, just above the Arch of Galerius). ( 2310/213-627.Free admission except for special events. Daily 8:30am-3pm. Bus: 10 or 11 heading east from anywhere on Egnatia.

White Tower.What Big Ben is to London, and the Eiffel Tower is to Paris, the 16th-century White Tower is to Thessaloniki. It is the city’s most famous landmark, although the tower is no longer white; a 1985 restoration (as part of the celebrations of the 2,300th anniversary of Thessaloniki’s founding) removed its whitewash. Due to ongoing restoration, the tower is sometimes closed, but it is well worth seeing up close from outside.

The tower, first built as part of the city’s defense walls, then became an Ottoman prison and place of execution (when it was known as the Bloody Tower). Today, several floors house the Museum of the History and Art of Thessaloniki; the artifacts within give an idea of life here through the centuries. That said, artifacts or no artifacts, the most fun here comes from climbing the steep winding staircase that takes you up six floors and leads to terrific views of the city and harbor. Each floor has a round room with alcoves, some of which were once prison cells. At the very top of the staircase, a cafe on the roof rewards you for the climb. If you’re here in winter, you’ll get an idea of just how dank and forbidding a prison this thick-walled stone tower must have been. Allow an hour here.

Nikis and Pavlou Mela, on the seaside promenade just south of the Archaeological Museum. ( 2310/267-832).Free admission. Officially, daily 8:30am-3pm. Bus: 58 from Dikasterion Sq., or 11 heading east from anywhere on Egnatia.

CHURCHES

Thessaloniki’s churches are a clear case of the whole being greater than the sum of its parts. Although Ayia Sofia and Ayios Dimitrios are the two best known, the smaller, less well-known churches may give you the greatest pleasure. Most Greek Orthodox churches are built either in the basilica style, which is a rectangle with side aisles or the domed cross-in-square form, which is just what its name says.

Many of these churches keep irregular hours, often closing from about 1 to 5pm. In short, the best way to see them is on one or more morning excursions. You can easily spend a week visiting these churches. Alternatively, you can visit the better-known ones in a rigorous day.

Admission to all churches is free. A small donation in the alms box is appreciated; it is usually found near the door or where votive candles are sold. Greeks move around fairly freely in church during many services, but it’s not a good idea to be an obvious tourist during a service.

The Churches in Downtown Thessaloniki

Ayia Sofia It’s a pity that Thessaloniki’s two most important churches—Ayia Sofia (Holy Wisdom) and Ayios Dimitrios (St. Demetrios)—are both heavily restored. Still, each is worth visiting for its importance in the city’s history and for its fine mosaics, although both lack the pleasantly dusty ambience and odor of sanctity found in Thessaloniki’s less heavily restored churches.

Thessaloniki’s 7th-century Ayia Sofia was inspired by the emperor Justinian’s famous 6th-century church of Ayia Sofia in Constantinople, although there may have been a modest 4th-century church here. Like the majestic Ayia Sofia in Constantinople (today’s Istanbul), Salonika’s namesake has an impressively large—in fact, an astonishingly large and astonishingly technical—dome. The ornately carved marble columns supporting the dome were pillaged from earlier monuments (as they were so often in antiquity and throughout the Byzantine era).

Fortunately, some of Ayia Sofia’s original mosaics have survived. The Ascension, with an oddly foreshortened Christ (supported by young angels), and the Virgin Mary with the infant Jesus are especially fine. Look carefully at the mosaics, and you’ll notice that some show only crosses and stars and have no human representations. These date from the 8th-century Iconoclastic period, when there was a ban on showing the human figure in religious art. The Iconoclasts destroyed many earlier works of art, including sacred icons, and left us with the word “iconoclast” to describe someone who destroys the past or challenges tradition.

Ayia Sofia Square is one of Thessaloniki’s nicest, and most important, squares. Many of the square’s finest houses were destroyed in the fire of 1917, which damaged Ayia Sofia church as well. Others suffered extensive damage during World War II. A service of thanksgiving was held here when the Allies liberated the city from the Germans on November 2, 1944. Today, much of Thessaloniki heads here for Easter and other important services. Keep an eye out for the “red house” at 31 Ayias Sofias, built in 1925 for a wealthy industrialist; across the street is the Terkenlis pastry shop, which also has hearty sandwiches and a wide variety of delicious ice creams. The pastry shop is an excellent spot to rest and refresh yourself after you see the church; until then, you can check out the goodies and pinpoint other Terkenlis branches in Thessaloniki at www.terkenlis.gr.

Ayia Sofia Sq., between Tsimiski and Egnatia. ( 2310/270-253.Daily 8am-9pm (but often closed 1-5pm)).

Ayios Dimitrios ( Church and Crypt of Ayios Demetrios)Like Ayia Sofia, Ayios Dimitrios was heavily restored—in fact, almost entirely rebuilt—after the fire of 1917. Consequently, this is a church with an imposing history, some fine mosaics, but very little soul. That’s a shame, because the story of Dimitrios is quite stirring: In the 4th century a.d., this site was occupied by a Roman bath, a corner of which was used as a makeshift jail. In a.d. 303, one of the prisoners, young Dimitrios, got into trouble by preaching the Gospel in Salonika. Dimitrios not only refused to renounce his faith but seems to have converted another prisoner, a gladiator who fought and killed Emperor Galerius’s favorite gladiator. Galerius was furious and had Dimitrios executed at once. Soon, a shrine here commemorated the martyred Dimitrios; then a small church was built, and in the 7th century a.d., the church was considerably enlarged into its present five-aisled basilica form. After the 1917 fire, the church was rebuilt on and off from 1926 to 1949. You can still see scorch marks from the 1917 conflagration on some of the interior walls.

Almost all the mosaics here are restorations of what was lost in 1917, but a cluster from the 5th to 7th centuries a.d. survives. Look for the lovely, original portrait of the boyish saint with two young children, and the representation of Demetrios with the church founders. (You can see other mosaics salvaged after the fire on display in the Museum of Byzantine Culture.) The mysterious crypt, which you access down a narrow, twisting staircase, reveals several small anterooms and remains of Roman baths; the crypt sometimes functions as a small gallery. Particularly venerated are the spot where Dimitrios is believed to have been martyred (and where a vial of blood, believed to be the saint’s, was found) and the spot with a holy-water font. For centuries, the faithful noted a sweet scent at the font, and believed that myrrh, or perfumed fluid, flowed from the saint himself.

As you leave the church, have a look at the chapel of St. Euthymius, built into the wall of Ayios Dimitrios. The 14th-century frescoes in the little chapel have all the verve lacking in Ayios Dimitrios’s heavily restored mosaics.

Corner of Ayiou Dimitriou and Ayiou Nikolaou, 1 block north of the Roman market, at the base of the Upper City. ( 032/0213-627. Church and crypt usually Mon 12:30-7pm; Tues-Sat 8am-8pm; Sun 10:30am-8pm). Bus: 22 or 23 leaves about every 10 min. from the stop near the church at the southeast side of Eleftherias Sq.

Ayios Panteleimon This probably 14th-century church, dedicated to one of the physician saints, is a popular place to light a candle and say a prayer for good health. The church, all that remains of a large monastery on this spot, is usually closed, but its elaborate brick- and stonework makes even a glimpse of it a delight. If you do get inside, note how the central dome is supported by four barrel vaults, a distinctive characteristic of Macedonian churches. Corner of Egnatia and Iassonidou.

Panagia Acheiropoietos (Church of the Virgin Made Without Human Hands) This 5th-century basilica is the only church from Thessaloniki’s early Christian days to have survived pretty much intact, without the restorations and renovations that have changed the characters of Ayia Sofia and Ayios Dimitrios. The church’s name comes from an early Christian icon of the Virgin which the faithful believed was made by divine, not human, hands. At some point, the icon was lost, but the church’s name still commemorates it. Due to the inexorable rise in street level over the centuries, the church now sits well below the level of today’s roads. The marble columns, with their elaborate “perforated” acanthus-leaf decorations, give you a good idea of the Byzantine love of the elaborate—achieved here by vigorous drill work. There are mosaics of floral and vine motifs interspersed with birds and 13th-century frescoes showing some of the 40 martyrs. The missing martyrs were probably obliterated when the church was converted to a mosque in the 15th century after Salonika fell to the Turks Ayias Sofia, north of Egnatia. No phone.

Panagia Chalkeon (Virgin of the Copper Workers) This tiny church with its three domes looks as if it would fit nicely into a miniature village. It has some fine frescoes, but its real glory is its facade, with windows piled above windows, domes above domes. Like the Panagia Acheiropoietos, the 11th-century Panagia Chalkeon now sits considerably below Thessaloniki’s modern street level. Some of the copper-workers’ shops, from which this church took its name centuries ago, survive nearby. Locals call this the “red church” for its rosy bricks. Dikasterion Sq. No phone.

The Churches in the Upper City (Ano Poli) Visiting these churches has a real bonus: You get to explore the narrow streets and lanes of the oldest section of Thessaloniki, once the home of many of Thessaloniki’s Turkish residents. In fact, many Thessalonians still call Ano Poli by the name Tsinari, the Turkish name of a massive plane tree that once grew here. The neighborhood is a maze of cobbled streets, with streetside fountains, old-fashioned corner groceries, cafes, some neighborhood hangouts, and some chic destination spots. Many of the wooden houses here have upper floors that project out over the ground floor and overhang the street. This was a clever way of getting as much space into a house as possible on as little land as available. In the 1960s, Ano Poli was practically falling down and might easily have been torn down and “modernized”—a fate that befell many of the old-fashioned small houses in Athens’s once charming narrow streets on the slopes of Mount Lykabettus. Fortunately, before the property developers pounced, young artists and students, along with many foreign residents of Thessaloniki, moved into Ano Poli. These settlers were lured up to the heights above town both by the neighborhood’s charm and by its low housing costs. Today, an Ano Poli address is considered very chic.

When you visit the churches of Ano Poli, be prepared to get lost at least once. Don’t fret: You’ll probably discover a wonderful little cafe, a church tucked away in a nicely tended garden, or a courtyard with a marble fountain while you try to find your way. If you like fortifications, you’ll love the remains of the massive Byzantine Eptapirigion (Seven-Gated) Walls that girdle Ano Poli. The walls, built and rebuilt between the 4th and 15th centuries, are often flood-lit at night.

Taking the bus (no. 22 or 23 from Eleftherias Sq.) to the Upper City is an easy ride. You can then wander back downhill.

Ayia Katerini Another of Thessaloniki’s fine 14th-century churches, built with a central dome flanked by four cupolas, is now surrounded by new apartment buildings and old homes. With elegant brick and stone work, it is a dignified reminder of one of the city’s finest artistic periods. Once inside, look for the wall painting showing the healing of the blind. Corner of Sachini and Tsamadou, near the Byzantine walls.

Ayios Nikolaos Orfanos Like Osios David (see below), this seemingly unprepossessing brick-and-stone church holds an astonishing treasure: well-preserved frescoes from the 14th century, the zenith of Thessaloniki’s artistic excellence. You can pick out

haloed St. Nikolaos himself, standing at the helm of the little boat he’s guiding across stormy waters. The other frescoes, as is usual in such cycles, show scenes from the Old and New Testaments, as well as saints and prophets. Next to the church, part of its once-flourishing monastery with an attractive veranda has just been restored, and makes visitors envy those lucky enough to live here. You may acquire a retinue of curious neighborhood children; most drift away in time, but some have hopes of sweets or even money and can be unpleasantly persistent. Apostolou Pavlou.

Osios David (Latomou Monastery) I manage to get lost almost every time I come here, but eventually find my way to this absolutely charming 5th- or 6th-century church, with its comfortable, shaded courtyard. Indeed, what a tempting fantasy to think of taking over the caretaker’s job, sitting with a book in the little shelter in the courtyard, tending the flowers, and unlocking the church for visitors—who are bound to be impressed, because nothing about Osios David’s simple exterior can prepare you for the glorious mosaic of the vision of Ezekiel inside. The vision shows Christ surrounded by the symbols of the four apostles (the angel, eagle, lion, and bull). If there’s a more moving mosaic in Thessaloniki, I’ve yet to see it! According to local lore, this mosaic spent several centuries hidden beneath a calf’s skin, which prevented the Turks from finding and destroying it. Osios David was built over (and used building blocks from) the remains of a once flourishing Roman bath, yet another example of the architectural recycling so popular throughout Greece. According to legend, the first chapel here honored the emperor Galerius’s daughter Theodora, who converted to Christianity, and hid a tiny Christian shrine in the tumbledown bath complex. When Galerius learned of her deceit, he first imprisoned her in her own chapel and later had her put to death when she would not renounce her new faith. If you wish to see the mosaics more clearly, ask the caretaker to turn on the lights—and slip her something for her troubles. Timotheou, off Ayias Sofia.

Profitias EliasThis substantial 14th-century church has an elaborate brick exterior that is well worth seeing. Women, who cannot visit Mount Athos, will get an idea from Profitias Elias of the cross-in-square style (with central dome) that is similar to many of the churches on Mount Athos. If you head back into town from here, you get good clear views over the city if you plunge downhill on the narrow street that takes off below the church’s courtyard. Olympiados.

Vlatodon Monastery (Vlatades)As you toil uphill, you’ll keep seeing the overhanging walls of the substantial Vlatodon Monastery, founded in the 14th century. In the last few years it has been substantially renovated and expanded, and has lost its “old” feeling. Still, the charming inner courtyard is a cool spot to rest for a moment or two. Cool, but not quiet: the resident peacocks are usually in good voice. The peacocks are here because they are an early Christian symbol of resurrection, perhaps because it was believed that their flesh did not decay after death. If the main church is locked, don’t be disappointed; the Turks damaged the frescoes badly and they have not been restored. By tradition, the little chapel of Sts. Peter and Paul was built on the spot where St. Paul preached when he visited Thessaloniki in a.d. 50. By the gate to the Acropolis.

MARKETS

Thessaloniki’s markets are a bit of Levantine exotica that knock the socks off anything to be found in Athens. And “anything” is precisely what you can find here, whether it’s knockoff designer bags, copper pots, piles of black-and-white postcards, and sheep’s bells (or sheep’s heads, for that matter!). It’s a great place to stroll, get lost, and have a snack or a meal.

The Bezesteni It would be wonderful to have a bird’s-eye view of the Bezesteni’s six domes and four entrances, one on each side. This covered market, built in the late 15th century by Sultan Bayezid II, is one of the best-preserved Turkish monuments in Thessaloniki. Now, it specializes in textiles and jewelry—making it a terrific place to browse and feel transported into an Asian bazaar. While you’re in the neighborhood, stroll over to the intersection of Egnatia and Venizelou streets, where restoration work began on Thessaloniki’s oldest mosque, the 15th-century Hazma Bey Mosque, in the summer of 2007. There are plans that the mosque will eventually be a museum housing artifacts found during the ongoing excavations for Thessaloniki’s Metro. Venizelou and Solomou. Usually Mon-Sat 9am-7pm.

Flea MarketJust what its name implies, this market, which sprawls along Tositsa, sells everything from genuine junk to genuine antiques (much more of the former than the latter). Of late, many eastern European sellers have been plying their wares here: usually leather jackets, fake Leica cameras and designer watches, and an odd assortment of alarm clocks, mirrors, and socks. Tositsa. Usually Mon-Sat 8am-7pm.

Kapani (Vlali) MarketThis market sells foods, dry goods, fabrics, and just about everything else you can think of, in a hodgepodge of ramshackle shops crowded one next to the other as far as the eye can see. There’s been a market here at least since Turkish times, and probably long before that. Bounded by Komninon, Egnatia, Aristotelous, and Menexe sts. Mon-Sat about 8am-5pm.

Modiano Market & the Mansions of Vas. Olgas & Vas. Sophias Blvds irk

Gypsies with dancing bears once played music in the Modiano Market. The bears are gone, but street musicians still stroll the area. You can easily spend a morning in the glass-roofed market that covers an entire square block, happily wandering from stall to stall and eyeing the fish, meat, fruit, vegetables, flowers, spices, and baked goods on sale. When hunger calls, look for the delicious food at Thanasis, or find a seat in one of the other cafes or restaurants.

The roofed market was built in 1922 by the wealthy Jewish merchant Eli Modiano, whose handsome family mansion (at 68 Vas. Sophias) is now the home of the intermittently open Folklore and Ethnography Museum of Macedonia. Many of Thessaloniki’s surviving 19th-century mansions still stand along Megalou Alexandrou and along Vas. Olgas and Sophias; Vas. Olgas in particular was once known as the “Boulevard of the Chateaux” for its imposing town houses. The Pinakothiki (Municipal Gallery www.thessalonikicity.gr), with an extensive collection of works by Macedonian artists, is in an early-20th-century mansion at 162 Vas. Olgas; its usual hours are Tuesday to Friday 9am to 1pm and 5 to 9pm, Saturday 5 to 9pm, and Sunday 8am to 3pm.

The block bounded by Aristotelous, Ermou, Vasileos Irakleiou, and Komninon sts. Mon-Sat about 7am-5pm.

MORE ATTRACTIONS

Alatza Imaret Along with the Bezesteni, the Alatza Imaret, a former 15th-century mosque with a poorhouse, or almshouse, is one of the best-preserved Turkish buildings in Thessaloniki. Alatza (many-colored) refers to the tiles and stones that covered the mosque in its glory days. If you’re lucky, it may be open for an exhibition when you visit; in that case, allow half an hour.

Dimitrion Sq., just off Ayiou Nikolaou, half a block north of Kassandrou, 1¹2 blocks north of the church of Ayios Dimitrios. (2310/278-587. Free admission. Open intermittently for exhibitions.

Ataturk’s Birthplace It’s a sign of Salonika’s rich Turkish past that Mustafa Kemal (Ataturk), the man who created the modern Turkish state and was its first president, was born here in 1881. You can get permission to visit Ataturk’s modest birthplace by applying at the neighboring Turkish consulate at 151 Ayiou Dimitriou. Greece gave the house to the Turkish government as a gesture of good will in 1933; often a Turkish official will show you through the house, which has been restored and furnished to reflect the way it must have been at Ataturk’s birth. An excellent English-language booklet (with photos) explains many of the photos and documents on view. Allow an hour here for the tour.

17 Apostolou Pavlou (8 short blocks east of the church of Ayios Dimitrios).(2310/248-452. Free admission, but passport or ID card necessary. Daily 10am-5pm. Bus: 22 or 23 from Eleftherias Sq.; also stops along El. Venizelou north to Ayiou Dimitriou. Enter through the front gate of the Turkish consulate.

International Fairgrounds If you’re in Thessaloniki during the September Trade Fair, you may want to take in some of the exhibits here. Notices of special exhibitions or events are usually posted conspicuously throughout the city. If you’re interested in the contemporary Greek art scene, stop in at the fairground’s sleek modern building housing the Macedonian Museum of Contemporary Art (2310/240-002www.mmca.org. gr). The museum has frequent special exhibits, as well as a good cafe and shop.

Entrances at the corners of Angelaki and Tsimiski, and Angelaki and Egnatia. Admission 3€. Jun-Sept Tues-Sun 9am-5pm; Oct-May Tues-Sun 10am-2pm and 5-9pm.

Jewish History Museum (aka Museum of the Jewish Presence in Thessaloniki) The first thing to know about this museum is that if you ask for it by address (13 Agios Mina), you will invariably be directed to the small church of Agios Mina directly across from the museum. Because many more locals are familiar with the church than the museum, ask for the church and then look across the street for the sign for the Jewish Museum. The museum uses photographs and artifacts to portray Jewish life through the centuries in Thessaloniki. Thessaloniki Jews established the city’s first printing press in the early 1500s and founded the city’s first newspaper, El Lunar, in 1865. The museum is housed in the 19th-century building which once was home to L’Independent, one of Thessaloniki’s many Jewish newspapers. The community thrived under the Ottoman Empire, and in 1900, 80,000 of Thessaloniki’s 173,000 inhabitants were Jews. Just before World War II, 60,000 Jews lived here; fewer than 2,000 survived the death camps. Museum staff can give you directions if you wish to see the Holocaust Monument, unveiled in 1997 at the corner of Egnatia and Papanastiou streets. Today’s Jewish community in Thessaloniki numbers about 1,000. When I last was here in May of 2009, a group of Jewish women from Argentina whose grandparents had left Thessaloniki just before the war were visiting. It was a moving experience for them, and for those also visiting when they recognized family members in some of the photographs on display.

If you’re interested in learning more about the Jewish community in Greece, check the publications in the museum store; the locally published Jewish Community of Thessaloniki and Niko Stavroloulakis’s books The Jews of Greece and Jewish Sites and Synagogues of Greece are excellent. The museum’s website is also very thorough, especially the section under History on the Jews of Thessaloniki. Allow at least an hour for your visit to the museum.

13 Agios Mina. & 2310/250-406. 2310/270-407. www.jmth.gr. Free admission. Tues, Fri, Sun 11am– 2pm; Wed–Thurs 11am–2pm and 5–8pm.

Lambrakis Monument On May 22, 1963, right-wing forces ran down and killed Grigoris Lambrakis, a leftist member of the Parliament, who had been speaking at a peace meeting. Vassilis Vassilikos based his novel Z on Lambrakis’s death; Costa-Gavras then adapted the novel for his film starring Yves Montand. Lambrakis’s assassination and the protests that followed were part of a long series of events culminating in the dictatorship of the colonels in the late 1960s. The bronze monument shows a figure with arms upraised, flanked by a dove of peace. Intersection of Venizelou, Ermou, and Spandoni.

Museum of Ancient Greek, Byzantine, and Post-Byzantine Musical Instruments What is it about music museums? The small one in Athens is one of that city’s finest, and Thessaloniki has its own appealing music museum. The three floors of this one house beautifully displays reproductions of stringed and wind instruments, along with marvelous photographs of instruments from ancient vase paintings or Byzantine manuscripts. Purists may object to the predominance of reproductions here, but the reproductions give a good sense of what the actual instruments looked like. Music sometimes plays softly in the background, the cafe is sometimes open, and if you’re lucky, a concert will be scheduled here during your time in Salonika. Allow an hour. 12-14 Katouni, Ladadika. (2310/238-391.Admission 5€. Tues-Sun 9am-3pm and 5-10pm.

ART GALLERIES

Thessaloniki’s best galleries often have exhibitions well worth taking in, although most keep irregular hours. Find out about them from posters in town, from the Greek National Tourism Organization office at 136 Tsimiski St., and from the listings usually published on Tuesday in Kathimerini, the English-language supplement to the International Herald Tribune. The weekly publication City is in Greek, but has enough information in English to be useful for non-Greek readers. As you explore the city, feel free to step inside any of the galleries; questions about exhibits are usually quite welcome.

Tips Hitting the Beach

Any beaches within the bay of Thessaloniki are too polluted to be pleasant, or even safe, although people do swim at them. Beaches in the communities of Perea and Ayia Triada, 16 to 24km (10–15 miles) along the bay east of the city, are considered reasonably safe. Just past Ayia Triada, on the headland of the bay, is the Greek National Tourism Organization facility of Akti Thermaikou, which has a children’s playground, changing cabins, snack bars, and tennis courts.

Only in Thessaloniki

Taking what the Greeks call a volta (stroll) along the seaside promenade, particularly at sunset or under a full moon, is one of the greatest pleasures of being in Thessaloniki. It’s also a great way to unwind after visiting the Archaeological and Byzantine museums, just inland from the east end of the promenade. Around the White Tower, you’ll see lots of peanut vendors, balloon sellers, pony rides for the children, and at least one horse-drawn carriage, all yours for no more than a few euros.

You might also decide to take an hour (or longer) to cruise the harbor on one of the small excursion boats (one dolled up as a pirate ship, another as Jason’s Argonaut) that dock near the tower. Posted signs advertise cruises of different lengths and prices. One warning: the harbor can smell pretty ripe in hot weather. If possible, take your cruise on a slightly chilly day with a brisk wind.

One not-to-miss place is the Teloglion Foundation of Art, 159A Ayiou Demetriou, on the Aristotle University campus (2310/247-1111; www.tf.auth.gr/teloglion). The gallery displays the private collections of a number of prominent Greek art collectors and also holds important exhibits, including “Miro of Majorca,” running until well into 2010. If that’s not enough reason to visit, consider this: Chef Ektoras Botrini’s Mediterranean cuisine at Art02-Ristorante Botrini, the in-house restaurant, won Athinorama magazine’s “value for money” award in 2009

Check out Apothiki, on Nikis by the waterfront (2310/240-877); Foka, 17 Foka (2310/240-362); Kalfayan, 43 Proxenou Koromilia (2310/231-187) and Metamorfosis, 128 Tsimiski (2310/285-071). Terracotta, 13 Chrysostomos (aka Chrys.) Smirnis and 76 Mitropoleos (2310/235-689), features works by some of Greece’s best-known contemporary artists (like Fassianos) as well as works by the up and coming.

In addition to these galleries, several museums and other galleries, open most days during normal business hours, emphasize the art and life of Thessaloniki and Macedonia,with particular reference to the lively pre– and post–World War II art scene. These include the Municipal Art Gallery, 162 Vas. Olgas (2310/425-531), with a collection of 19th- to 21st-century works by Greek artists, many from Thessaloniki, the Gallery of Fine Arts, 1 Nicephoros; Germanou, inside the National Theater Building (2310/238-601) the State Museum of Contemporary Art in Thessaloniki, 21 Kolokotroni, in the Lazariston Monastery (2310/589-140 www.greekstatemuseum.gr), with a collection of 20th- and 21st-century Russian art; and the National Bank’s Thessaloniki Cultural Center, 108 Vas. Sophias St. (2310/586-123). Tw o museums in the art complex housed in renovated waterfront warehouses in the Port of Salonika are reached through Gate A off Koundouriotou St, the Museum of Photography, Warehouse A (2310/566-716), and the Center of Contemporary Art, Warehouse B1 (2310/546-683 www.cact.gr). Galleries are free; museum admissions are usually 3€.

Tips Details, Details

In Thessaloniki, old-style, pre–European Community shopping hours, unfathomable to foreigners, still predominate. Stores open at about 9am and close around 1:30 or 2pm for the afternoon siesta. On Tuesday, Thursday, and Friday evenings, some (but not all) reopen from about 5:30 to 8:30pm. In July, however, almost all shops close for the evening. The best time to shop is morning.Note that some of these stores will take major credit cards, but almost all, especially the smaller ones, prefer not to.As a Greek friend reminds me, “If we don’t have the money in our wallet, we don’t buy something.”

SPECTATOR SPORTS

Like most Greeks, Thessalonians are keen soccer and basketball fans, rooting for the home teams. (Confusingly, the Aris and PAOK stadiums are home to both basketball and soccer teams.) Your best bet if you don’t speak or read Greek and want to catch a game is to check with the concierge at your hotel. In general, soccer games are in spring and fall, basketball year-round. Aris Stadium is in the suburb of Harilaou (2310/305-402), while the much-easier-to-reach PAOK Stadium is on Ayios Dimitrios, 2 blocks northeast of the International Fairgrounds (2310/238-560).

SHOPPING

Lots of Greeks think that their second-largest city offers better shopping than Athens, in part because the compact city center makes it easy to explore the major shopping districts. Also, because Thessaloniki is relatively tourist-free, you won’t be overwhelmed here by streets lined with garish souvenir and T-shirt shops, as is the case in Athens’s Plaka district. Keep in mind that here—as throughout Greece—most chic boutiques stock imported goods from Europe and the States, usually with a hefty import duty that is passed on to the customer. If you shop the winter (Jan) and summer (late July and Aug) sales, you may find some bargains.

Some Thessaloniki shops still sell crafts by local artists, including coppersmiths. Not surprisingly, many of these shops are near the church of Panagia Chalkeon (Virgin of the Copper Makers) in Dikasterion Square.

Antiques

You’ll find a number of antiques shops on Mitropoleos and Tositssa streets.

Tip: Reputable shops will explain that you’ll need an export license to take out of Greece any item more than 100 years old. The Wednesday street market area around the Rotunda (Agios Yiorgos Church) has a number of stalls with pseudo and genuine antiques, as well as a lot of, well, junk.

Relics Offering high-quality antiques, from silver- and glassware to jewelry, ceramics, prints, Art Nouveau lamps, and Victorian-era dolls, this is a serious shop with serious prices. It’s located a block east of the Mitropoleos Cathedral off Mitropoleos (closed Sun).3 Yioryio Lassani. (2310/226-506)

Art

See “Art Galleries,” above.

Books, Newspapers & Magazines

Ianos, 7 Aristotelous (2310/277-164) Travel Bookstore (2310/275-215) and Malliaris,9 Aristotelous (2310/276-926), have wide selections of Greek and foreign books, as well as other publications. If you’re wondering why I don’t mention Molho at 10 Tsimiski, long the oldest and finest bookstore in Thessaloniki, it, alas, closed early in 2009.

Apostolic Diakonta Bookstore Although this handsome bookstore specializes in books on religious matters, it also carries a wide selection on Greece (in English and French, as well as Greek). This is a wonderful place to browse. Even if you can’t afford one of the superb photography books of Greece, you can find wonderful cards as well as good reproductions of icons. 9A Ethnikis Aminis, near the Archaeological and Byzantine museums. (2310/275-126)

Copper

Adelphi Kazanzidi At this family-run shop, copper-working skills have been passed down from generation to generation. The shop sells numerous finely crafted copperware items such as wine carafes, skillets, water heaters, and trays, all handmade on the premises. There are also many copper shops around the Panagia Chalkeon church. 12 Klissou-ras, off the western side of Dikasterion Square, a block north of Egnatia. (2310/262-741.

Tips Pack’n’Send

Office supplies may sound precisely like what you don’t want to think about on vacation, but if you need stationery, packing tape, scissors, or large envelopes with which to mail purchases home, Spondilides, 24 Tsimiski, in the stoa (2310/269-825), is your place. Tip: Don’t seal your packages until you get to the post office. All parcels are subject to inspection before they are shipped.

Department Stores

Lambropoulos The best department store in the city, it has five floors of everything and anything you might want, from cosmetics to basketballs. It’s a block west of Aristo-telous, at the corner of Komninon. 18 Tsimiski (2310/269-971).

Fashion

For both men’s and women’s fashions, try the department stores such as Lambropoulos (see above) or the chic—and expensive—boutiques on pedestrian walkway Dimitriou Gounari.

Oxford Company A centrally located option (with some English-speaking staff) is this long-established men’s shop. On its walls are photos of the family’s old cotton mills in Volos.4 Palaion Patron Germanou.(2310/273-087)

Gifts & Souvenirs

Almost all the museums have gift shops with some excellent museum reproductions; Nikis Street, along the harbor, has a sprinkling of small shops with souvenirs.

Tanagrea You’ll find a wide selection of handcrafted items by a stable of artisans employed by this well-known chain of stores, which also has outlets in Athens, Crete, and Spetsai. Offerings include ceramics, pewter, silver, leather goods, paintings, glassware, and jewelry.

On Vogatsikou a block east of the Metropolitan Cathedral between Mitropoleos and Proxenou Koromila.

ZM Pronounced Zeeta Mee,, this store offers three floors of expensive but well-crafted Greek souvenir items such as worry beads, pottery, folk art, rugs, toys, handcrafted caiques, prints, and a few antique silver place settings and jewelry. It’s an extremely tempting gallery-like place to browse.

1 Proxenou Koromila, a block east of Aristotelous Sq. ( 2310/240-591).

Leather

If you want good-quality leather, resist the eastern European leather vendors who set up stalls on many street corners.

Falli The best of several leather-goods shops in the area is Falli is on the southwest corner of the outdoor market, near Ermou and El. Venizelou. It makes and sells shoulder bags, backpacks, attache cases, and sandals. Tr y to bargain by looking downcast and disappointed when you hear the price. 11 Askitou.( 2310/229-197).

Markets

See “Markets” for the Modiano, Kapani, Bezesteni, and flea markets.

Music

Blow Up: The Music Stores, 8 Aristotelous, on the east side of the street a block north of Tsimiski ( 310/233-255); Patsis, 39 Tsimiski, at the corner of Aristotelous ( 2310/231-805) and Studio 52,46 Dimitrious Gounari 2310/271-301).

EnChordes, 3 Ipodromiou ( 2310/282-248), sells many kinds of musical instruments and CDs, including Byzantine music.

ShoesPak This store carries a wide selection of high-quality Greek shoes—from hiking boots to high heels—at decent prices. The foreign brands here are much more expensive. 3 Ayias Sofias Sq., opposite the north side of the church( 2310/274-863).

Sweets

In a city where sweetness is next to godliness, the venerable Agapitos,53 Tsimiski ( 2310/279-107), gets rave reviews, as does Hatzi,50 Venizelous ( 2310/279-058). All are made with great, mouthwatering, high-caloric care. One of the branches of the excellent sweet shop, Terkenlis (www.terkenlis.gr), is nearby at 30 Tsimiski, so you can easily compare and contrast. Both are closed on Sunday. Don’t panic: Averof, 11 Vas. Georgiou (2310/814-284), Thessaloniki’s famous kosher bakery, is usually open 365 days a year.

Stay

WHERE TO STAY

Unfortunately, after the catastrophic earthquake 1978 and with lack of resources for Hotel development, there no place to stay in Thessaloniki and to Northern Greece Territory. The only place have constructed with modern environment, by the sea and in the place where nature reveals its beauty, with a Garden-Park, Pool, Wi-Fi is Agrili Halkidiki Resort in Khalkidhiki.

I am joking of course.There a lot of hotels in Thessaloniki and below we mention some really worth it, but if you have a family and need a more quiet and relaxing place near to Thessaloniki Agrili Halkidiki Resort offer a very good accommodation and the best view to the sea.

Because of Thessaloniki’s long history as a center for national and international trade, its large hotels have traditionally focused on serving the needs of commercial rather than leisure travelers. Recommendations below avoid large, expensive hotels that have amenities more appealing to business travelers (large conference rooms) than to independent travelers (good location and pleasant accommodations). One especially welcome exception: the Mediterranean Palace Hotel. In recent years, Thessaloniki has gained several “boutique” hotels, notably the Capsis Bristol Hotel, Andromeda, Luxembourg and Daios; in addition, some old standbys, such as the Tourist, Le Palace, the Olympia, and the Plaza Art Hotel have undergone extensive renovations.

It makes sense to reserve in advance year-round to avoid difficulties during Thessa-loniki’s many trade fairs, festivals, and associated cultural events. Bookings peak in September and October, when the International Trade Fair is quickly followed by the month-long Demetria cultural festival (not to mention the Festival of Greek Songs and the Film Festival!). Hotel prices here can be especially confusing, with online booking often advertising, but not always producing, prices much lower than those quoted by the hotels.

Tip:Expect a hefty surcharge (sometimes 50% or more) on the regular rates that we list during the fairs and festivals.

In addition to the following well-established options, here are three new small, centrally located hotels to consider that were offering surprisingly reasonable rates in 2009. Most rooms are themed at the elegant five-star Andromeda, 5 Komninon St. ( 2310/254-760 www.andromeda-hotel.gr; doubles from 90€–140€), with a Jacuzzi in the Tokyo Room, stark white decor in the Italian minimalist room, rose-colored brocades in the Viennese room, and so forth. The adjacent Luxembourg, 6 Komninon St.( 2310/252-600 www.hotelluxembourg.gr), has more traditionally elegant rooms (soothing pastels, reassuringly heavy curtains and bedspreads), with doubles from 85€ in July and August to 150€ during high season. Both hotels are small, with personable staff and great locations steps from the action on seafront Nikis Street. If these two hotels keep their prices this low, they will be very good choices, indeed. The Daios Hotel, 59 Nikis St.( 2310/250-200; www.daioshotels.com; doubles from 150€), has a great seaside location near the White Tower, steps from more cafes than you can count (including their own very elegant one) and minimalist rooms in beige and blonde tones. I find the public rooms here very engaging and the bedrooms very boring. A big plus here: excellent soundproofing on the windows and sea views from many rooms.

Very Expensive

Capsis Bristol Hotel You’d never guess that this small, elegant boutique hotel occupies a 19th-century building that was once an Ottoman post office. Today, the Capsis Bristol just may be the place to stay, with a great location in the lively waterfront Ladadika neighborhood. Most of the guest rooms are painted deep, rich colors, all are decorated with antiques and paintings—and named after Macedonian heroes. (You might choose the Alexander Room.). Unusually for Greece, some rooms are handicap accessible.

Tip:Be sure not to confuse this hotel with the massive (perfectly serviceable, but not charming) 415-unit Capsis Hotel, also in the Capsis group, out of the city center near the train station.

2 Olimpiou and Katouni, 54626 Thessaloniki. ( 2310/506-500. www.capsisbristol.gr. 20 units. 220€-320€ double. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; babysitting; concierge; room service. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi.

Classical Makedonia Palace ( Makedonia Palace) This hotel almost always makes it onto Odyssey magazine’s prestigious list of Greece’s best hotels— and, if you are here on business or traveling with children, this may be the place for you. If you’re here to see and experience Thessaloniki, I think you’ll find it—like many luxury hotel enclaves—too isolated. There are lots of creature comforts here and, in summer, lots of Greek families on holiday—not to mention high-stepping gamblers. (Europe’s largest casino is next door; see “Thessaloniki After Dark,” later in this chapter.) In the usual manner of Greek hotel decor, the serious glitz is concentrated in the lobby and the guest rooms are rather bland, many with somber headboards, dowdy chairs and curtains, but spacious bathrooms and balconies. All units have balconies and picture windows, but

if you stay here, insist on a seaside room. (Why pay all that money and not have the view?) If you don’t want to head back into town after a day’s sightseeing, the hotel’s restaurants include a sushi bar and rooftop restaurant, serving up international cuisine with splendid views over the city and Gulf.

2 Leoforos Megalou Alexandrou (on the seafront promenade a half-mile east of the White Tower), 54640 Thessaloniki. & 231/089-7197.< 231/089-7211. www.classicalhotels.gr. 284 units. 300€–500€ double. Discounts sometimes available off season. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; 2 bars; airport pickup arranged; children’s playground; concierge; health club and spa; 2 outdoor pools (saltwater and freshwater); room service; smoke-free rooms; tennis courts. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi.

Mediterranean Palace Hotel In 1997 the Mediterranean Palace opened in the Ladadika district, with its tempting restaurants and cafes; its location, comforts, and service continue to make it Thessaloniki’s best large centrally located hotel. Everyone I know who has stayed here agrees that this is the place to stay in Thessaloniki—but not if you want a minimalist approach to decor. This hotel is self-consciously old-fashioned and elegant. Balconied front rooms overlook the harbor, and almost every unit is large and furnished with comfortable beds (with elegant silk and brocade coverlets), spiffy wall-to-wall carpeting, and cozy chairs, including leather recliners. Many of the guest rooms have especially nice touches, such as decorative moldings and large walk-in closets—and if you want to make a phone call from your bathroom, this is the place to do it. As for the suites, with their large living rooms, kitchenettes, and bedrooms, I could happily live in one for months. It’s no small wonder that the hotel consistently appears in Odyssey magazine’s list of the best hotels in Greece. Ask whether the price quoted includes the excellent buffet breakfast and be sure to check for special packages, when the rates have been known to drop as low as 100€.

3 Salaminos and Karatassou, 54626 Thessaloniki. ( 2310/552-554./ 2310/552-622. www. mediterranean-palace.gr. 120 units. 200€-300€ double. American-style buffet breakfast 15€. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; 2 bars; concierge; exercise room; pool (indoor); room service; smoke-free rooms. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, kitchenette (suites), minibar, Wi-Fi.

Expensive

Electra Palace Hotel Overlooking Thessaloniki’s main square, the Electra Palace, with its handsome, curved, arcaded facade, has the best location in town—except when there are noisy demonstrations in Aristotle Square. The Electra also has an inviting rooftop pool and restaurant. If you stay here, insist on one of the fourth- or fifth-floor rooms with a balcony overlooking the square; some of the interior rooms are astonishingly small.

9A Aristotelous Sq., 54624 Thessaloniki. ( 2310/232-221./ 2310/235-947. www.electrahotels.gr. 70 units. 185€-310€ double. Rates include American-style buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; 2 bars; concierge; health club and spa; outdoor rooftop pool; room service; smoke-free rooms. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi.

Moderate

City Hotel The City’s heart-of-town location is excellentjust steps from the appealing restaurants on Kominon St. in the Louloudadika. Rooms and bathrooms are generously proportioned. One big plus: City is home to the excellent Elenis Spa ( 2310/269-421), which offers everything from a quickie “taster facial” (40€) to a full “day of tranquillity” (295€). The City gets lots of tour groups, but still manages to give independent travelers individual attention.

11 Komninon St. 54642 Thessaloniki. ( 2310/269-421. www.cityhotel.gr. 125 units. 120€-200€ double. Rates include America-style buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Bar; room service; smoke-free rooms; spa. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi.

Hotel Olympia Well-traveled Greek friends who stayed here loved the central location, praised the restaurant, and liked their stylish room. That’s probably because much-needed renovations have smartened the hotel greatly. Most rooms are decent-size with good beds and—still a pleasant surprise in a Greek hotel—decent reading lights. The Olympia’s location, at the northern end of the Roman market, near St. Demetrios Church and the flea market, is quieter than some of the nearby main drags. The website is not helpful.

65 Olympou, 54631 Thessaloniki. ( 2310/235-421./ 2310/276-133. www.hotelolympia.gr. 111 units. 125€-160€ double. Compulsory breakfast 10€. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar. In room: A/C, TV, minibar, Wi-Fi.

Le Palace Hotel This small hotel with a central location has high ceilings, Art Deco touches, and a contemporary room style which includes both fairly minimalist doubles and more swish triples and suites. Many Thessaloniki fans make a point of returning year after year, drawn by the Palace’s tasteful and cozy ambience; most bathrooms have a tub as well as a shower, not standard in Greek hotels. The in-house restaurant provides lunch and dinner with advance notice, and the breakfast buffet is lavish. In fact, Le Palace makes it into British hotel critic Alastair Sawday’s upmarket Special Places to Stay in Greece on the basis of the breakfasts alone!

12 Tsimiski, 54624 Thessaloniki. ( 2310/257-400. 2310/256-589. www.lepalace.gr. 58 units. 100€-180€ double. AE, DC, MC, V Amenities: Bar. In room: A/C, TV, Internet.

Mandrino Hotel A complete renovation turned this centrally located hotel into a perfectly fine choice at a good price. Egnatia Street is a main thoroughfare and shopping street, so don’t expect tranquillity; rear rooms are usually less noisy than those facing Egnatia. Bathrooms and rooms are small and very simple. One plus here: The Mandrino does have nonsmoking rooms, which is unusual in modest hotels in Greece.

29 Egnatia, 54624 Thessaloniki. ( 2310/526-321 to -325./ 2310/526-321. www.mandrino.gr. 72 units. 100€ double. Discounts usually offered for booking through the hotel’s website. AE, MC, V Amenities: Bar; lounge; Internet. In room: A/C, TV, minibar, Wi-Fi.

Plaza Art Hotel With a great location in Ladadikia, close to scads of restaurants and cafes, the Plaza offers excellent value. The rooms are not my idea of restful: Some have red curtains and bedspreads, others red-and-white-striped walls, and at least one has a circular bed with a Hollywood film noir black-satin spread. As for the art— there are lots of reproductions and some pieces by contemporary Greek artists.

5 Paggeou, 54631 Thessaloniki. ( 2310/520-120. www.hotelplaza.gr. 35 units. 100€ double. MC, V Amenities: Breakfast room. In room: A/C, TV, minibar, Wi-Fi.

Inexpensive

Hotel Orestias Castorias This formerly modest little hotel has undergone a considerable face-lift in the last few years and is now one of the best buys in town. The location, near the Roman Forum, is quiet; the (small) rooms have balconies (no. 27 overlooks a quiet garden; front rooms overlook the Forum); the staff is welcoming. Many guests are budget-conscious Europeans. One drawback: There is no elevator.

14 Agnostou Stratiotou, 54631 Thessaloniki. ( 2310/536-280. 2310/276-572. www.okhotel.gr. 28 units. 65€-80€ double. MC, V Amenities: Lounge; Internet. In room: A/C, TV.

Hotel Tourist Renovations transformed much of the Hotel Tourist from dingy to spiffy. The gold-gilt borders of the high ceilings gleam, the crystal chandeliers sparkle, and the breakfast room is a welcome addition—although it would be nice if smoking were not allowed here. Some of the smaller rooms are very small and quite gloomy, with just about enough room for a double bed, with a bathroom (showers only) small enough to make me resolve (again) to take up yoga. Still, if you get one of the larger twin-bedded double rooms, with a decent bathroom, this is an excellent value in a great (but not quiet) location, with a helpful staff.

21 Mitropoleos, 54624 Thessaloniki. ( 2310/270-501. / 2310/226-865. www.touristhotel.gr. 37 units. 75€-100€. Discounts usually offered for booking through the hotel’s website. Inquire about reduced rates. DC, MC, V. Amenities: Breakfast room; lounge.In room:A/C, TV, fridge.

Just Outside Thessaloniki

When I’m in Thessaloniki, I want to be in Thessaloniki. That said, here are a few suggestions in case you’d rather stay outside the city and make excursions into town.

Summer in Thessaloniki can be both hot and humid. If you want to enjoy cool evenings, try the sprawling four-story Philippion, in the forest of Sheih-Sou to the north of the Upper City ( 2310/203-321; www.philippion.gr). Unfortunately, a series of recent summer fires has badly damaged the lovely forests. The Philippion overlooks Thessa-loniki and is a 25-minute drive from the city center (hotel shuttle buses go into town frequently). The guest rooms are large and sunny, the best being on the third floor to the rear, with a view of the city.

Facilities include a pool, children’s playground, and good restaurant, with local specialties such as mussels in hot-pepper sauce; live entertainment is sometimes offered in the evening. The clientele is mostly vacationing Greek families, who can be rather boisterous. The hotel’s proximity to the Ring Road makes it extremely easy to reach the airport (15 min. away) and the main highways to Athens, Halkidiki, and Thrace.

If the Philippion is full, and you want a place out of town, try Panorama, 26 Analipseos, Panorama ( 2310/341-266 www.hotelpanorama.gr), a lovely, wooded suburb of Thessaloniki. This hotel prides itself on its family atmosphere but does not have the facilities for children that the Philippion has. During the week, the Panorama is usually very quiet, with fine views toward Thessaloniki and Mount Olympus. The restaurant is well respected.

Finally, if you are just passing through and changing planes at the Thessaloniki airport, there’s the Hyatt Regency Casino Thessaloniki ( 2310/401-234). It’s near the airport, about 13km (8 miles) from Thessaloniki itself, and has a large casino, pools, tennis courts, spas, restaurants everything, in short, to pass the time between flights.

The Philippion’s doubles begin at 180€; the Panorama’s double rooms begin at 140€; the Hyatt Regency’s doubles begin at 200€. The Philippion and Panorama are both popular local venues for weekend weddings and baptisms.

Dining

WHERE TO DINE

Some people come to Thessaloniki to see its Byzantine monuments, some to enjoy its art galleries and night life, but just about everyone agrees that you can consistently eat better in Thessaloniki than anywhere else in Greece. You can combine culture with cuisine if you have a snack at the excellent restaurant at the Byzantine Museum or the Teloglion Foundation. If you have skirts or slacks with elastic waste bands, be sure to pack them when you come here! Most restaurants and tavernas offer cuisine of a distinctly Thessalonian character (see “The Food of Thessaloniki,” below), including

The Food of Thessaloniki

It’s a vexing question: To what extent has Thessaloniki’s cuisine been influenced by Turkish cuisine? Certainly, the use of spices, the delicate hand with fish, the wide variety of vegetable dishes, and the extravagantly rich pastries so popular in Thessaloniki are not unknown in Turkey. As any Greek will tell you, this is because the Turks, during their long occupation of Greece, absorbed— stole, actually—the secrets of Greek cuisine. Some might argue that when the Turks withdrew from Greece, they took many of those secrets with them. Others would simply say that in some parts of Greece—such as Thessaloniki—a love of cuisine and a devotion to spices lives on.

In fact, it’s the spices that set Thessaloniki’s cuisine apart from that of the rest of Greece. Take the peppers. The most famous Macedonian peppers are the red florines, originally grown in the town of Florina, but now raised throughout Macedonia. These can be sweet or so hot that they lift off the top of your head. I Iike both varieties, but I’d be a lot more relaxed when taking that first bite if I knew for sure whether any individual florina were going to be sweet or pyrotechnic.

In addition to the florines, there are some really hot peppers traditionally grown in the Macedonian town of Piperia (the Greek word for “pepper”). These peppers are dried, then flaked, and the result, called boukovo, is sprinkled liberally into just about everything.

Tip: In some Thessaloniki restaurants, in addition to the salt and black pepper on your table, you’ll find another shaker, of red pepper. Treat it with respect.

game, while ouzeries specialize almost exclusively in mezedes (appetizers). The mezedes are so good and so varied that you may be tempted to make a meal of these alone, although many ouzeries offer more substantial main courses. Sadly, the increased pollution in the bay has reached a point that makes me avoid most fish here; mussels are very popular at many restaurants and almost always brought in from outside the area. If you insist on fish, here are some suggestions. As you might guess from its trendy name, Entryfish, 5 Pavlou Mela ( 2310/230-031), caters to the smart set that knows its fish (and eel and mussels), and expects the best. If you want to get out of town for a meal, head to the suburb of Nea Krini, a 20-minute taxi ride from the center of town. Noted food writer and critic Diana Farr Louis has recommended Archipelasos ( 2310/435-800) and

Hermodrakas ( 2310/447-947); others praise Miami ( 2310/447-996) and Porto Marina ( 2310/451-333), both serving fresh fish that is not from the bay. With even the humblest fish usually selling for more than 25€ a kilo in the market, all these restaurants are expensive—and the price of fish continues to go up.

Even in the most expensive establishments, the dress code in Thessaloniki is casual for men; ties and jackets are rare. Twentyish women are partial to low-cut designer jeans and tops with lots of cleavage and sequins, whereas most older women are resolutely chic, in little black dresses or more conservative trouser suits, but always with elegant handbags and shoes. Most restaurants don’t take reservations, but you’ll almost always get a table if you arrive for lunch before 1pm and for dinner no later than 9pm.

Note: Most Thessaloniki restaurants—even the fanciest—do not accept credit cards.

Restaurants & Tavernas Expensive/Moderate

Draft GREEK/INTERNATIONAL Back in 1997, Draft was one of the first Ladadika spots to renovate an old brick warehouse and capitalize on the seemingly endless local love of ouzo, beer, and mezedes. Today, it’s still one of the best places in town, with terrific food served up in the casual ground-floor publike bar, or one of the more elegant lounges upstairs. In summer, you can sit out in the garden. After all, what could be more pleasant than to let the evening slip away while listening to some low-key jazz while nibbling on salmon rolls with caviar, vegetable dips and fritters, and shrimp in hot sauce? Come to think of it, I’ve never ordered an entree here, but always end up making my way through as many mezedes as possible.

3 Lycourgous and Salaminos, Ladadika. ( 2310/555-518. Main courses 12€-25€. DC, V. Mon-Sat noon-1am.

Kioupia GREEK This trendy taverna with brick walls and wood floors in the old warehouse district has excellent stifada (stews), kefiadakia (meatballs), and spicy gardou-bitsa (liver and garlic); wild boar is sometimes on the menu, which also has a number of tasty domestic pork dishes. Crisp layers of phyllo (pastry) wrap a number of ingredients that include eggplant, zucchini, lamb with cheese, and minced beef with cheese. Dessert brings a range of Greek and Turkish sweets, the house retsina is excellent, and the wine list is extensive. The same management runs the nearby Amorgos, 4 Panaiou and Doxis, Ladadika ( 2310/557-161), which specializes in fresh fish.

3-5 Morihovou Sq., Ladadika. ( 2310/553-239. Fax 2310/553-579. www.kioupia.gr. Reservations recommended after 9pm. Main courses 15€-25€. AE, MC, V. Mon-Sat 1pm-1am.

Krikelas GREEK In 1999, Krikelas, a Thessaloniki institution since the 1940s, opened a branch in the Ladadika district, just across from the Mediterranean Palace Hotel. For visitors, the Ladadika Krikelas is conveniently located, and the food continues to be as good as ever. The specialties: a mouthwatering variety of mezedes and whatever game is in season (including quail, pheasant, rabbit, boar, and partridge). A regional specialty, spetzofai, combines seasonal vegetables with a pungent country sausage. For dessert, try the homemade halva with almonds. The wine list at both branches is serious, although you can get a decent bottle for around 15€.

6 Salaminos, Ladadika. ( / 2310/501-600. Also 32 Eth. Antistaseos. ( 2310/451-289. Fax 2310/451-690. Reservations usually not accepted. Main courses 15€-25€. No credit cards. Mon-Sat 11:30am-2am. Usually closed July-Aug (but the Ladadika branch may be open then).

Tiffany’s GREEK/CONTINENTAL This popular place, with wood paneling and pictures of old Salonika on the walls, seats about 100 and attracts an interesting mix of people: regulars who drop in every night for a quick bite, and then the gaggles of 20-somethings who sit at the window tables and wait to be seen. I like the atmosphere here more than the food: two of the house specialties—bifsteki Tiffany’s (steak stuffed with cheese and tomatoes) and hanoym borek (casserole of roasted chicken, ham, veal, and cheese)—both strike me as rather bland. On the other hand, I’ve had fun trying to figure out the principle behind the music here, which can include everything from Harry Bela-fonte and Greek golden oldies to Philip Glass.

3 Iktinous (on the walkway between Tsimiski and the church of Ayia Sofia). ( 2310/274-022. Reservations recommended after 10pm. Main courses 10€-20€. No credit cards. Daily 11:30am-2am.

Wolves GREEK This warm, dark-wood, old-fashioned restaurant, established in 1977, serves up basic Greek fare including pastitsio and moussaka, and somehow makes these old standbys seem fresh. Try the roasted red peppers from Florina as one of your starters. For the main course, sample the house moussaka, the oregano-flavored stewed pork or lamb, or the batter-fried codfish in garlic sauce—or take a look at the day’s special on the kitchen’s display counter.

6 Vas. Olgas (1 block in and 2 blocks east of the Makedonia Palace Hotel). ( 2310/812-855. Main courses 10€-18€. No credit cards. Mon-Sat 12:30pm-1am; Sun 12:30-5pm. Usually closed Dec 12-Feb and Aug 5-15).

Zythos GREEK/CONTINENTAL This was one of the first restaurants to open in the restored warehouse district, and it’s still very popular with ladies who lunch, young lovers, harried businesspeople, and groups of golden youths. The decor is wood and brick, as you’d expect in a former warehouse, although the slim young waiters in their chic outfits hardly suggest warehouse workers. I always like the fluffy croquettes of vegetables, the zesty saganaki (fried cheese), and veggie pasta. Usually one of the two daily specials is a vegetarian choice. Reservations are a good idea on weekends.

If you like Zythos, try its branch, Dore Zythos, 7 Tsirogianni (( 2310-279-010), by the White Tower, which sometimes has live music. 5 Katouni, Ladadika. (© 2310/540-284. Main courses 10€-18€. No credit cards. Daily 11am-1am).

Inexpensive

Two usually local-only places for your consideration: Tsarouhas, 78 Olymbou, near Dikasterion Square, seems to be open at all hours (although it closes July-Aug), and serves patsatzidhika, the tripe soup that’s supposed to cure all that ails you, especially too much ouzo.

In the Upper City, head to To Yedi, 13 Ioannis Papareska ( 2310/246-495), outside the gates of the Eptapirgiou prison, to sit under the trees, relax, and try the kefiedes (meatballs) and other mezedes.

Kentrike Stoa GREEK/CONTINENTAL This snacks-and-drinks place in the Central Market is up a winding metal staircase from the market itself. The ceiling is covered with parachute cloth, jazz contends with shouts from the market below, and the languid local 20-something crowd tolerates outsiders gracefully—and can be fun to watch as they vie to impress one another.

32 Vas. Hrakleiou. ( 2310/278-242. Snacks 5€-15€. No credit cards. Mon-Sat noon-1am).

Loutros GREEK For years, Loutros occupied part of an old Turkish bath; now it’s in new quarters across from the Bezesteni, the old Turkish market still in use. The Loutros still serves fried minnows (which you eat whole) and delicious mussels, as well as tasty horta (greens) and florines (spicy red peppers). The music here is usually very Levantine-sounding—which, in Greece, is a polite way of saying that it sounds absolutely Turkish. The retsina, from the barrel, is memorable.

5 M. Kountoura (opposite the Bezesteni), just past the Ouzerie Melathron (see below). ( 2310/228-895. Main courses 8€-15€. MC, V. Mon-Sat 11am-midnight).

Thanasis (Myrobolos Smyrnis) GREEK For 47 years, Thessalo-nians have been beating a path to this small taverna that serves zesty home-style cooking—including stuffed squid and mussels (both fried or steamed). In fact, the first customer through the door in the new millennium was then Greek Prime Minister Simi-tis. The sign over the door reads h mypobolos smyrnh (Fragrant Smyrna), but everyone knows it equally well by the name of its original owner, Thanasis. Usually very quiet from

around 7 to 9pm, at lunch and dinner this place is usually packed. The potato salad, cheese croquettes, spicy peppers with cheese, squid stuffed with cheese and rice, grilled fish and meats, and excellent bakaliaro (batter-fried cod) are all wonderful, as is the atmosphere when this tiny restaurant with photos and old prints on the walls reverberates to the wails of Balkan music.

Ermou and 32 Komninon (just inside Modiano Market). ( 2310/274-170. 2310/347-062. Reservations necessary after 10pm. Main courses 8€-15€. No credit cards. Mon-Sat about 10am-3am).

Xenophon GREEK There’s been a Xenophon restaurant on Komninon, the little street that runs past an old Turkish bath and flower market, since 1942. In 2008, Xenophon got a complete face-lift, with sleek black tables and white chairs inside and out. Inside, prepared dishes are helpfully on view in a display case just inside the door where the chef grills to order. This is a perfect place to come for a big lettuce and tomato salad (with a terrific sesame seed dressing) and grilled bifstekakia (zippy hamburgers) or soutoukakiai (cigar-shaped beef and lamb patties). There are also stews and chops, but the bifstekakia and soutoukakiai are so good I have yet to try them. If you want a more varied menu than the Xenophon’s, try another slightly more expensive long-time favorite, the excellent Louloudadika, which often has live music in the evening, a few steps away at 20 Komninon.

18 Komninon. ( 2310/272-870. Main courses 6€-7€. No credit cards. Mon-Fri noon-midnight; Sat noon-5pm).

Ouzeries

Although ouzeries specialize in ouzo and the mezedes that go with them, you need not drink ouzo, or any kind of alcoholic beverage, to enjoy the marvelous variety of foods they offer: octopus, meatballs, shrimp, squid, taramosalata (fish roe pureed with oil and bread), tzatziki (cucumber, yogurt, and garlic), melitzanosalata (eggplant puree), cheeses, and salads of potatoes, beets, or beans. If you’re uncertain about what to chose, ask if you can go with your waiter to look at the offerings and point to what you want. The price below is for an ouzo and a selection of two or more mezedes; you can eat very cheaply at these places, or run up an impressive tab, depending on how many snacks and ouzos you want to try.

Aproopto Light GREEK Highly popular with professionals of the nearby State Theatre and other artistic types, this place serves excellent mezedes as well as mussels with spinach, leeks a la Parisienne, and saganaki (fried cheese). Its relatively small, convivial, well-decorated sidewalk and interior dining areas are usually packed.

6 Zevksidos (a pedestrian walkway off the eastern end of the church of Ayia Sofia). ( 2310/241-141. 10€-25€ for several mezedes. No credit cards. Daily noon-1:30am).

Aristotelous GREEK After all these years, Aristotelous is still packed during the peak lunch and dinner hours, and remains popular with writers, artists, and everyone else in the know, so you should come either early or late or you’ll end up waiting at least 20 minutes. Indoor and outdoor seating areas between high-rise office buildings contribute to the crush and, somehow, the charm. You can and should linger for hours, which is why it’s often so hard to get a table. The variety of mezedes is sumptuous. Try the fried zucchini and eggplant, the ktipiti (feta cheese mashed with hot peppers and olive oil) and, for something more substantial, the soupia (stuffed cuttlefish). Also delicious is homemade halva for dessert.

8 Aristotelous (in a cul-de-sac between office buildings on the east side of Aristotelous, just north of Tsimiski). ( 2310/230-762. Reservations not accepted. 15€-25€ for several mezedes. No credit cards. Mon-Sat 10am-2am; Sun 11am-6pm.

Ouzerie Melathron GREEK This is one of a chain of ouzo and mezedes places, most of which are in Northern Greece. You’ll find a wide choice of ouzos, great house wine, and mezedes, including the popular sagan

(a slab of fried cheese with a crispy exterior and a melty interior), kefiedes, grilled hot or cold octopus, sprats, and local olives.

23 Eleftherious Venizelou and Ermou. ( 2310/220-043. 15€-25€ for several mezedes. No credit cards. Usually closed July-Aug. Daily from 11am til at least midnight).

Tsinari’s GREEK A very welcome place to plop down for a rest from sightseeing in the Upper City, this ouzeri started life as a Turkish coffeehouse, and may be the only such spot to have survived the great fire of 1917. There’s a wide variety of mezedes and, in my experience, somewhat capricious hours.

72 Papadopoulou. ( 2310/284-028. 10€-20€ for several mezedes. No credit cards. Opening hours vary; call ahead).

Nightlife

THESSALONIKI AFTER DARK

If you think that everyone in Thessaloniki is rushing somewhere all day, just wait until nightfall. It seems like everyone in town stops at a favorite cafe on the way home from work and then out to dinner—this, before or after taking in a play or concert at one of the city’s many theaters, concert halls, and nightclubs with live entertainment. Though many publications list events and posters splattered everywhere announce them, almost all will all be Greek (or possibly Russian or Japanese) to you. Ask for information at your hotel, or stop by the office of the Greek National Tourism Organization (EOT), 136 Tsimiski ( 2310/252-170; www.mintour.gr), or the Thessaloniki Tourist Office, 138 Vas. Olgas (2310/428-329; www.thessalonikicity.gr).

Meanwhile, the city seems festooned with enough bars and clubs to serve a population twice its size, yet all of them are crowded to the bursting point—and more open every year. For some of the liveliest nightlife in town, try one of the cafes in the waterfront Ladidika district, or along the harbor on Nikis Street, or head inland to sample the cafes on pedestrianized Zefxidos and Iktinos streets. In the heat of summer, many cafes move to beach locations in the eastern suburbs, but you’ll still find plenty of action in town, including the Regency Casino Thessaloniki (www.thessaloniki.regency.hyatt.com), by Thessaloniki International Airport. The casino is popular year-round, mostly with foreigners, and often draws charter flights filled with eastern European tourists. It may be harsh to say, but this casino will appeal most to sociologists interested in the gambling customs and costumes of tour groups. It’s open 24 hours, and the 25€ entrance fee is often waived between 8am and 6pm.

The Performing Arts

Kratiko Theatro (State Theatre of Northern Greece) has two venues. In winter, it stages plays in the Royal State Theatre, next to the White Tower ( 2310/860-966) in summer, it stages plays at Theatro Dasous (Forest Theatre), an open-air amphitheater in the forested hilltop area east of the Upper City ( 2310/245-307). The company presents ancient and modern Greek plays, as well as Greek translations of foreign plays by a range of authors as varied as Christopher Marlowe and Arthur Miller.In summer, the Forest Theatre, which has a marvelous view of the city, also hosts lively, well-attended concerts by popular Greek singers and composers, as well as performances by visiting ballet companies.

Thessaloniki’s splendid Megaron Mousikis (Concert Hall), 25 Martiou and Paralia ( 2310/895-800 www.tch.gr), opened in 2000; in 2009, the excellent Thessaloniki State Orchestra celebrated its 50th anniversary. Check with your hotel concierge or at the hall for a concert schedule. Aristotle University Concert Hall also hosts concerts (it’s on Nea Egnatia, opposite the northern entrance of the International Trade Fairgrounds) September through May ( 2310/283-343).

Festivals

DEMETRIA FESTIVAL October 26, St. Dimitrios’s day is celebrated all over Greece, but in Thessaloniki, the celebration lasts for weeks! The festival, which gets bigger every year, started with a Greek film festival and now includes many theatrical and musical events.

THE FEAST OF STS. CONSTANTINE & ELENI (MAY 21) On or around the feast of the first Christian emperor and his mother, villagers in Ayia Eleni (80km/50 miles northeast of Thessaloniki) and at Langadas (12km/7 miles northeast of Thessaloniki) engage in pirovassia (fire dancing). Crowds come from all over Macedonia to see the faithful dance over a bed of hot coals. When they’re done, they feast on the roasted black bull sacrificed earlier in the day. In case you’re wondering—yes, much of what’s done here preserves pre-Christian rites.

INTERNATIONAL TRADE FAIR FESTIVAL This takes place every year during the first 2 weeks in September and draws businesspeople from around the world. The international fairgrounds have lots of exhibits, so hotel rooms are hard to find—and expensive (often double normal prices).

The Bar, Club & Music Scene

In July and August, many of Thessaloniki’s best bars and clubs shut down. Some immediately reopen branches along a section of the road leading east along the coast, about a mile before the airport. This, plus the fact that new or newly decorated and renamed venues are constantly opening while others go out of fashion and close, makes it virtually impossible to recommend any with certainty. No one ever answers the phone at these places and most addresses are not visible, so I am not listing either. Most of these places are open virtually 24 hours a day; some have gaggles of unattached but alert singles looking for action in its many manifestations. Others are teeming with more staid locals. In short, take a stroll; start with harborside Nikis Street and you’ll eventually spot the bar scene that suits you best.

In town, in the summer of 2009, Greek friends of mine were heading to bars like Urban and the improbably named Pasta Flora Darling! on Zefxidos Street, but they were pretty sure they’ll be looking for new spots in a year or two. On the Ladadika waterfront, by the State Museum of Contemporary Art (www.greekstatemuseum.gr) housing a surprising collection of contemporary Russian paintings), you can begin or end your revels with breakfast at the Kitchen Bar in Warehouse B. A couple of neighborhoods churn out new favorites in nightlife year after year. In Ladadika, try the spots along Katouni Street and around Agia Sophia Square, check out Zefkidos Street. Keep going west and you pass from Ladadika into the neighborhood of Xyladika, where lots of warehouses and shops around the old railroad station are being converted into bars and galleries. You’ll probably enjoy exploring Xyladika more with Greek friends than on your

own. Along Nikis Street, check out Elvis, which often has a D.J, Tribeca, DaDA, Ther-maikos, the oddly named Pollock, and the drop-dead understatedly elegant Daios (often with jazz Fri-Sat). Best of all, get a local with similar tastes to give you some tips.

Milos In the midst of all the clubs and bars that come and go, this place seems eternally popular. Not only is it a permanent fixture of Thessaloniki nightlife year-round, but it manages to include the best of the bar, music, and club scenes in the city. Within the grounds of a wonderfully restored flour-mill complex,the Milos(Mee-los)complex contains a club for blues, folk, jazz, and pop groups; a nightclub featuring Greek singers and comedians; a bar/disco; an outdoor concert stage and movie theater; several exhibition rooms and art galleries; a cafe; and an ouzeri that serves more than 30 kinds of mezedes.Almost as soon as it opened in 1990, Milos became one of the top musical venues in the country. Each summer, performers from around the world (and from throughout Greece) appear here and perform everything from golden oldies to neo-grunge. If you want to be sure of a seat, it’s a good idea to arrive before the clubs open at 10pm. The ouzeri, cafe, and galleries open from about 11am on. Go west on Tsimiski to its end and turn left onto 28 Octobriou. At the first traffic light, turn right onto Andreadou Yioryiou and continue to the end of the street. This is quite a hike from the center, and you may want to take a cab.

56 Andreadou Yioryiou. ( 2310/551-838 or 2310/525-968. www.mylos.gr. Cover varies: usually no more than 40€; drinks from around 10€.